Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Re: heater control valve Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 09:44:34 -0400 From: "Pete Stanisavljevich" Organization: Cox Target Media To: netscott@earthlink.net CC: tiger mail References: 1

Scott,
You can combine the CAD plated upper portion of a TR6 heater valve, with the lower cast aluminum portion of a Jaguar e-type heater valve. Buy the two valves (sorry, I don't know the part numbers off hand), and drill out the pop-rivet that prevents the valve parts from turning. Twist them apart then combine the TR6 top and E-type bottom. Pop rivet the valve at the correct angle to prevent rotation , and you're all set. The only way to tell that you don't have a genuine Made-for-Tiger valve is the part number.
If you'd like, I can e-mail you the part numbers of the two valves to use tomorrow. If you have a local british parts supplier as I did, they'll be able to help as well. Just take in you old valve and compare.
Hope this helps
Peter S. B9471799

netscott@earthlink.net wrote:
> i am looking for a heater control valve for a 65 mk1. SS does not have > them and said to use a control valve from a 75 to 79 honda civic. has > any one used this part or know of a better one ? > > scott > B9472628
Subject: Heater Valve part numbers Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 11:06:38 -0400 From: "Pete Stanisavljevich" Reply-To: pete_stanisavljevich@sunserv1.valpak.com Organization: Cox Target Media To: Steve Laifman , Jay Laifman

Gentlemen! I don't remember which one of the two of you requested the heater valve part numbers, so I'm sending it to both:
The stock Tiger Mk1 heater valve # is FHW1299/04 if you can find one. In my case the local jaguar guy (a crusty, but helpful guy) had none in stock. If you have a local brit car place, they might still have one around if they've been in business for awhile.
The TR6 valve, which will be top of the pseudo T-MK1 valve is: FHW1279/11. This valve has the correct cable mounting, so the warmer setting on the dash gives you more heat. The lower flange is threaded, so it won't fit a standard MK1 bracket. This top portion is CAD plated stamped sheet metal.
The Jag valve, from which you will use the bottom of on your pseudo T-MK1 valve is: FHW1272738. This valve has the bolted flange to match the Tiger's bracket. This portion is cast aluminum or pot metal. Shop this one around: Jag means $$$$ and a mail order place quoted me $90 for one. They can be had for far less.
Drill out the pop rivet that prevents the valve from rotating, seperate the parts of the two valves, assemble the TR6 top, and jag bottom at the correct angle. Pop rivet it to retain the pieces and install.
No more wiping the windscreen with your hand!
Peter S. B9471799
Subject: aluminum radiators Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 18:40:22 -0400 From: "Schotland" To: tigers@autox.team.net

I have no vested interest. Just passing this info along...
Doug Jennings of Tiger Auto in Dayton, OH, is selling single row aluminum radiators for $350 + shipping. Considering the CAT 4 row rad is around $400 and they never seem to have one when you want one (supplier problems?), $350 for an aluminum rad is one hell of a deal. Based on the glowing reviews of a few fellow TE/AE members, I just ordered one for my car today.
Doug says he has one or two not spoken for in this latest shipment. Another shipment will be coming in 4-5 weeks if there's enough interest. Call him at (937) 252-3317 during business hours for more info.
Gary Schotland
Subject: Re: Fan Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 11:03:53 -0500 From: "Ray McCrary" To: "Steve Laifman" References: 1 , 2

First, what was that HTML code you had in your mail? Came up as a 'tag" in this reply?
Whoops, know I know, maybe. I can't split your message up into 'byte sized' pieces to answer each statement, so I am just going to see if I can use a different color, as you like html. {9-> Really ought to change that, as the list won't take the message unless you send it both ways. In this case, I see no advantage except itsy-bitsy type face.
Sorry,came setup that way on the new T1 connection...
Really need a "delta-p" measurement across this to let you know when to look.
You know, it really wouldn't be that difficult to rig a Delta-P. All that would be required would be two pressure taps to two of those little Holley-type fuel pressure indicators. Tap #1 to gauge #1 on the engine side, and tap#2 to gauge #2 on the other side of the filter. Get a baseline pressure differential (if any) with a clean engine, etc. and go from there. Then you could do trend checks like we do on a/c!
Haven't had a JCW catalog in years (or Warshawsky). Found some anodes at a boat store, but they either screw into an engiine receptacle, or are just too big to get into the radiator neck. Would really like magnesium, much better for this job. Remember you do have an aluminum (maybe) waterpump, and (maybe) an F4B that need protection. Does this thing of JCW fit inside the tank, and where does it ground? Would appreciate the latest info on part number, description, and 800 number order line.
JC Whitney: Phone 312/431/6102 fax:800/537/2700 or:www.jcwhitney.com

catalog #626J, Pg 213, p/n 74DN7496U, price 9.99

Grounds to expansion tank with brass ring that seals under the rad cap. stainless wire leads to anode of zinc/mag that sits immersed in the coollant. Exp tank must be grounded, but that was easy through the mounts straps. Need more information here. Name, addresss, phone, e-mail, cost, need for custom shroud, one or three pass, one or two row, any mods to the inlet neck, use of existing tank, other differences from stock. Thanks. Rad is a triple pass, fits as stock. It is a square tank and the airbleed for the expansion tank is a brass fitting in the top of the left tank. While not stock looking, it is not a glaring abnomality. Allowed air conditioning to be fitted to the car, too!
I used a fiberglas replica of the stock shroud, changed it and added a bottom piece. With a/c blowing cold, it takes about 20-25 minutes of sitting still in 93 degree ambient to reach 230 degrees coolant temp. That is unless the aux fan is switched on. Then it sits at 200.
Ron Davis Racing, 7334 N. 108th Ave., Glendale, AZ 85307 Phone 623/877/5000 Fax 623//877/5001 Cost: $495 plus shipping. Aircraft/NASCAR quality.

-Got an aluminum hood made and fitted..looks truly slick. The only problem now is that I worry about dents!!!l Sold my fiberglass one cheap to a guy who is a bodyman. I warned him first.
Got it made in Chattanooga. Cost $950, looks exactly like the LAT except that it fits, and doesn't have lumps! Weighs less, too! When the guy made it, I drove the car down and left it for a week. Picked it up with the hood installed, but not painted. Steven MacClindon was the guy who made it, but he would need the car. He fitted it to the car.
Best Regards,
Ray

1 | 2 | 3 | 4| 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29

---

These "Tech Threads" were originaly gleaned from old saved Tiger List Subscriber's submissions Tiger List Membership Link

---

	+ The Roots of Rootes   + History of the Tiger   + Tiger Model Overview   + Tiger Production   + People & Pioneers   + Workshop Manual   + Factory Race Equipment   + Literature: Books   + Articles & Videos   + Advertising   + See Rootes Resources		+ History of the Tiger   + Sunbeam Tiger 2005   + Early Race History   + Ken Miles, an appreciation   + The "Beastie" explained   + The Playboy Pink Tiger   + Casting a Light on Lucas   + LeMans at Goodwood 2002   + Monterey Historics 2003   + My Life With Cars   + See Articles & Humor		+ High Perf. Exhaust   + Tiger Dash Restoration   + 350 Lunati Tiger   + Installing a T5   + Sound Advice   + Installing New Carpet   + The Ackerman Angle   + "Cool It Buddy"   + 3 Point Belts   + Tiger Rotisserie Plans   + Tiger E-Mail List Archives   + See Technical Tips by Author		+ Tiger Club Information   + Events Calendar   + Service Directory   + Owner's Gallery   + Buyer's Guides   + Contributing Editors   + Team Tiger Updates   + Photo Gallery   + See Online Resources