Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Re: cooling hot tigers Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 14:55:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Hall To: Allan Connell CC: tigers@autox.team.net

At 01:27 PM 8/30/97 -0700, you wrote: >Tom, > >Thanks for your input on this subject. A quick questions however: Several >months ago you suggested that I move the radiator cap on my Tiger. >Frankly, I did not understand this suggestion as my Mk-1 has a copper >"header" tank that has the cap on it rather than on the radiator itself. >Through trial and error, I have discovered that it is best to keep the >header tank no more than half-full. In addition, It should be noted that >the header tank is mounted on the fender well, well above the top of the >radiator. Am I missing something or is everything after the Mk-1 >different. Sorry to ask the question but I just do not have enough >experience with Tigers yet. Plenty with small block Fords and other LBC >though!!
The cooling system is dynamic and has different pressures in various locations. The system was designed with various fixed orifice holes to control distribution, and one variable (the thermostat) to control temperature. The water pump impeller is the lowest pressure area in the system, and if it is turned too fast or poorly designed impellers designs are used, cavitation (the formation of steam bubbles) occurs. The inlet side of the pump and the tank it's connected to are the next lowest pressure areas. The pressure cap only "sees" the local pressure, so the pump inlet tank is the proper location for this device. By relocating the cap to the top of the inlet tank, the cap relief pressure is effectively increased by the pressure drop through the radiator core.
The original header tank should never be over 1/2 full or expansion will quickly reduce it to that level. You could simply re plumb the header tank to the right hand side of the radiator, but the plumbing would be awkward. Most of the "relocations" I have done or seen, use a non pressurized expansion tank, just like most late model cars do. This will keep your system fuller and make it more effective.
The restrictions of air flow are a major problem for Tigers. At low speeds, air recirculation around the radiator reduces its effectiveness. At high speeds, inadequate air flow paths restrict air throughput. The two holes on either side of the radiator are major culprits. All air entering the engine compartment from the front should be forced to pass through the radiator. Full shrouds and electric fans can help at low speeds. At high speeds, you have to get the air "out" once its through the radiator. That's why you see so many cars with supplemental vents such as LAT hoods. A front end air dam is also effective to reduce the pressure under the car to aid hot air flow as well as adding high speed stability.
Tom Hall
Subject: Electric Fan Date: Fri, 5 Sep 97 11:49:03 PDT From: rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu (Bob Palmer) To: tigers@autox.team.net

Guys,
I was asked about the particular electric fan I'm using. It's a 13" pusher type and I ordered it by phone from Quest Cooling. 13" is the minimum size that comes with the Terminator motor and is the maximum size I could get to mount flush with the radiator. For information, call 800-272-FANS (3267) and talk with Gary. You can also write for info to Quest Cooling 25520 Avenue Stanford, Unit 304 Valencia, CA 91355
The fan comes with all necessary mounting hardware and manual or thermostat switch. It'll cost you in the neighborhood of $100.
I rotated the mounting frame 90 degrees and secured it above and below the radiator. I positioned the fan as close as possible to the radiator, then sealed around the periphery with soft rubber weatherstrip material. I don't have a thermostatic switch, just manually turn it on when I anticipate needing it. Only problem is to remember to turn it off. Will add an indicator light one of these days.
Bob
Subject: Re: Electric Fan Date: Fri, 5 Sep 97 13:14:25 PDT From: rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu (Bob Palmer) To: STUART_BRENNAN@hp-andover-om3.om.hp.com CC: tigers@autox.team.net

Stu,
Sorry, forgot to mention CFM. It is about 1600 CFM or twice what yours was. Together with the fiberglass mechanical fan they manage to do a pretty good job. It's also very important with a pusher fan to seal it against the front of the radiator.
Bob
> >Bob: > >Since my installation of a totally inadequate fan a couple years back, I've been >trying to keep track of what works, and what doesn't . Did your fan come with >any specs about how many CFM of air it could supposedly push? Mine is about the >same size, and claimed about 800CFM, which does nothing for my Tiger. Just >pushing the revs up to about 1500 with the stock fan pulls much more air than >this thing. I'm just guessing, but I'll bet it takes at least double, if not >triple the CFM to do any good. > >Stu

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