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Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Re: help please Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 19:10:37 -0700 From: steve sage To: "James E. Pickard" CC: tigers@autox.team.net References: 1

> ........ > > On another subject, the heater core has sprung a leak. Since I need a > heater in South Louisiana like I need a second navel, I'll probably just > bypass the heater core and forget it. But just in case I get ambitious, > how much work is it to change the heater core? Who has one? > > Jim Pickard > B9473298
Jim:Can't offer advice on the trans changover but the heater core is relatively easy. 1. Open the hood. 2. Disconnect the hood latch cable. 3. Undo the screws all the way around the "bowl" in the body which holds all the hood opening harware. 4. Lift this piece out. 5. Now you are looking at your heater core in that hole. 6. Lower your coolant level in the radiator an inch or two (It's been a while and I can't remember if you actually have to do this as the heater core is elevated above the radiator). Disconnect the two hoses going into the heater core. Stick some rags or paper towel around the area as you'll be getting some coolant slopping out and around when you undo those hoses, plus the core will have some if it hasn't all leaked out. 7. The core should now lift out without too much trouble. Note that on occassion, due to people putting higher pressure caps on their radiators through the years, the heater core may be "bowed" out, or expanded, a bit on the sides. You may need to take a couple of screwdrivers, one on each side, and "wiggle" the core out if this is the case, as was with mine. 8. Take the core to your local radiator shop, have them clean it and fix any holes. 9. Re-install it and you're done. (1. Be sure that you re-attach the hood latch cable securely. You don't want it coming off later on. 2. When you top up your radiator, run the car for a while with the heater valve open/heater on, to make sure everything gets filled up again)
Have fun.
Steve Sage
Subject: Re: FPI (fins per inch) question Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 12:01:56 -0500 (CDT) From: Organization: FlashNet Communications To: "rflynn"

On Tue Aug 3 07:35:33 1999, "rflynn" wrote:
> OK - looks like I misunderstood the whole "fins per inch" concept. > Given the following: > ---------- > /\ /\ > / \/ \ > ---------- > would that be 4 fins or 2 fins? I counted it as 2 fins. > > The guy at the radiator shop tells me that it is 4 fins. This is > germane because he is looking at my radiator right now. In his > opinion my 0-speed overheating problem (runs fine so long as the > car is in constant motion) is at least partially due to the 18(!) fin > count on my 2 row hi-flo radiator. He recoginsed the core immediately > and said that they are usually used for racing purposes only since > the rely on a large volume of air being forced through the radiator > at speed. (He also seems to concur with accepted net wisdom that > a 3 or 4 row core with 14 fins is a more appropriate solution.) He > basically stated that the current 18 fin core is too dense for the > purpose. > > Any comments, thoughts, opinons on this? And is it 4 fins or 2 fins > above?!?! > > thanks in advance > > rick
Rick,
Those are "4" fins, in the radiator business, for the purpose of 'fins/inch'.
I have already sent you the specifications and sources for both high capacity, high fin count, 4 row modern Modine radiators and aluminum raditors. These all work extremely well in over 105 degree temperatures (providing you have nothing wrong with your motor).
At least this guy is telling you that the previous builder was nuts.
18 fins/inch may be a little high, the Modine specified was a 14 fins/inch four staggered rows that was the same thickness as the original radiator, and didn't require tank modifications. It is considered a 'high performance' radiator.
It could very well be that, since heat has never been a very big concern in England, they just don't make these, or anything like them. These are even Special Applications Department product from Modine, and not part of their normal radiator shop inventory, so a little more expensive, but very good.
If you can afford the wait, I'd buy one of the American ones, from the sources mentioned. If you are going for a recore (which is cheaper than aluminum, it might pay you to send a set of end-tanks to the Simi Valley firm I mentioned, and have them return it to you complete. Take measurements between bolt-centers on the tanks, to assure the correct width, and they will deal with the stuff in- between.
Weve got plenty of owners who have gone with this core design. Talk to Allan Connell
. (Another good Irishman)
Good luck, again Steve

Subject: Re: DI water - Technical Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 14:33:21 -0700 From: To: pamelam@connix.com CC: tiger list References: 1

WARNING! This material is of a highly technical nature, and has a tendency to make one's head hurt. There are a lot of big words used, but that's unavoidable as I am not smart enough to know the small ones, nor eloquent enough to be briefer. - {9-> Steve
pamelam@connix.com wrote:
> I traveled with one of our experts this week that has 20 years experience > pumping Category I DI water through electrolyzers and fuel cells. > > He thought that straight DI would be a risk, especially to a pitted > radiator. It will take ions out of the metals until the solution reaches > equilbrium. > > However, adding rust inhibitor, antifreeze, pump lube to the water puts > ions in the water again. It is a good idea to use good water (I have to, as > my well water is high in minerals) to prevent scaling and subsequent > degradation of the ability to exchange heat. > > Bob Melusky
Thank you, Bob
I was thinking over your friends comment on the affinity for DI (distilled?) water
for having a propensity for taking ions out of metals being riskier than "good water". I am not sure what that is, but "de-ionized" water has ions removed as well.
If I recall my Chemistry 101 correctly, a solvent will reach equilibrium with any material that is soluble in it. Once saturated to it's capacity for that material, it stops. That does not, however, prevent it from dissolving a different soluble material to it's own solubility limit. If I have reached saturation in dissolving table salt, NaCl, that does not prevent me from also reaching the equilibrium point with sugar. Although it wouldn't taste too good.
I doubt very much that any normal water has much aluminum ions in, it. Maybe some copper, maybe some iron. In any event, the actual solubility of these materials is extremely small, so the fluid would soon be saturated with minuscule amounts, even if it had none to begin with.
I think what we are facing here is NOT solubility, as much as electrolysis. And this should not be confused with scale, which are deposits of materials having reached super saturation, or just plain evaporation, or oxidation.
Electrolysis depends on the relative location in the electrolytic activity table, and the electrical conductivity of the fluid. Distilled water is a very poor electrical conductor, as opposed to a thermal conductor. Ionized water is much better conductor because of the dissolved ions.
Some materials will electrolyticly react with a conductive fluid. But the most active materials will be absorbed by the electro-chemical reaction first. Aluminum will dissolve before the iron. That's why the aluminum heads and pumps go, but this reduces the electrolysis of the cast iron.
The use of a material higher in the electrolytic table, such as zinc or magnesium,
will cause those materials to be sacrificial anodes before the materials lower on the scale, like aluminum, copper, iron are affected
Salt water cooled engines use sacrificial zinc in their system to prevent the iron
from going, and sea water is highly conductive.
J. C. Whitney (Warshowskies) still sells zinc/magnesium radiator rods with a stainless tie to the water inlet for fishing out the remains. The sacrificial electrolytic erosion of this material will prevent the copper, aluminum, and iron materials, all lower on the scale, from being electrolyticly attacked.
Try this simple example out on your friend, and see how he responds. Chem. 101 was a long time ago.
Bob Palmer may be fresher at this than I am.
Steve


-- Steve Laifman B9472289


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