The comments contained herein are the sole opinions of the contributors, and should be used with appropriate consideration of possible errors of omission, commission, or lack of sufficient information.

Section Editor - Larry Paulick

Section O - Body
Page 10


Subject: Shocking Tales
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 10:21:28 -0400
From: Cmeinel464@aol.


The main problem is your wheels have that 1/2-inch offset, and this causes rubbing of the tire on the wheel well. You have three choices: Change the wheels to a zero offset; change the tires to 175x70 (or use a lower profile) I have 215x60 with NO RUBBING. Or you have to cut off about a 1/2 inch of the inner arch. You could use a saw and cut every 2 inches or so and bend the inner lip up with a vice grip, if you do this, you'll later be able to bend the lip back to its original position and Spot-weld them.

Best regards

Curt Classic

Subject: Disassembly
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:51:03 -0800
From: Tom Hall-
To:Chris Mottram

>I am stripping my Tiger and Series 5 for a trip to the media blaster. How
>do I get the wiper arms off. How do I get the wiper washer jets off?

Arms: Look for the small (1/8") wide retainer clips under the "arm" side of the wiper. A small flat blade screwdriver is used to press upward on this clip, which pulls it out from beneath the splined head. At the same time a wider blade screwdriver is used to press upwards (on the axis of rotation) on the opposite side. Once the retainer has passed the bottom of the splined head, apply pressure evenly to both screwdrivers to lift it straight off. Jets: The jets are threaded 10-32 into the adapters below the cowl. Simply unscrew them ( lefty loosy) and lift off the chrome ellipse. The rubber grommet can be pushed out when you remove the adapter to the inside.


Subject: Hood Alignment
Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 11:24:52 -0800
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To:Dave Johnson

Dave Johnson wrote

> 4.. Remove the hood but not before marking the hinge placement
> so it will line up when reinstalled. Us chalk or magic marker.


If your hood is well aligned, my favorite technique is to drill two 1/8 inch holes through the hinges and under-panel of the hood, one on each side of each hinge center web (four holes).

You must be careful to STOP after the first layer of hood. An adjustable drill stop set of disks with allen screws will help if you are over-eager. Trick here is to use a spring loaded center punch to stop drill wander and a good sharp new drill bit.

When you put it back together, a few 1/8-inch drill rod dowels, or the shank side of drill bits, will assist in aligning the hood to exactly the position it was when you removed it, INCLUDING and hinge spring back that might have existed. This alignment is done after the bolts are in and slightly touching. Get some extra hands, and tape the front of the body in the front hood area in case you let the hood get too close.

Steve Laifman - B9472289

Subject: Trunk Problem (boot problem)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 23:39:00 +0100
From: Jeff Howarth-
To: steve sage-

Hi Steve,

I guess the starting point is to make sure the striker on the trunk (AKA boot) lid is straight. If it is bent then it is effectively shorter. The receiver on the rear panel is designed to rotate and close around the pin on the striker. the catch looks a little like a bottle opener and rotates almost through 90 degrees between open and closed. You can check this with the boot open by rolling the catch with a screwdriver, when open it is towards the rear of the car, to close it lever it forward against the spring (don't go mad with a big screwdriver) and feel it click into place. When it is closed it should partly wrap around the pin on the striker and hold it in position. Pushing the release should make it fly back and clear the way for the striker to lift vertically as you open the boot.

Unless the car has been hit in the rear, there should be enough adjustment on the striker to accommodate for wear - the pin can wear but rarely needs replacing. If the problem persists a work around is to file the inside upper jaw of the 'can opener' to allow the pin to sit deeper into the jaw. This would need the striker to be moved up by the same amount that you file away. Don't go more than 1mm otherwise the jaw will be weakened too much.

From ones I have seen, it is generally when they are too loose that they tend to open on their own or maybe the boot seal is incorrect. I will mail you a couple of photos later.
Happy over-driving --

Jeff Howarth

Subject: Seat Bolts
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 1999 20:22:58 -0700
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: FritzWich wrote:
> Patrick, Tiger Listers...
> Here's a Whiz-Tip I picked several years ago for replacing the seat
> retainer bolts in our cars. I don't remember where the tip originated but
> it had something to do with the quick removal of aircraft seats.
> Go down to your local hardware store and find the Clevis Pin Department. Buy
> 4 of the appropriate length and diameter to fit (I have the measurements but
> I'm not near my cars now). The clevis pin has several holes along its shank
> and a flat head on one end, like a nail. I attached a split key ring in the
> hole nearest the flat head to make a "pull". Push the clevis pin through the
> floor frame base and the hole on the seat frame. Insert a hitch pin through
> one of the holes on the clevis pin to secure it in place.
> When the seats need to be removed. Pull the hitch pins, then the clevis
> pins. The next think you know is your seat is out of the car. Works like a
> charm.

> Happy 4th from WhizzzBANG Motors
> ...Rich

The actual aircraft quick-release pins I used come with a pull ring attached to a end piece with a button in the center. Depressing the button retracts two ball detents at the other end. You simply depress the button and stick the pin thru the seats and brackets. When it comes out the other side, let go of the button. The balls come out and prevent removal. Pull on the ring, with the end button depressed (one hand operation) and pull it out. Do it to other side and the seat is out. These are cheap aircraft surplus, and dear at your boat store, but really do a fine one-hand operation.

-- Steve Laifman - B9472289

Subject: Defroster Vents
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 17:34:32 -0700
From: Bob Palmer-
To: Stu Brennan-, "Overton, Keith A."-

Stu, Keith,

I got something similar meant for an engine heat riser at Pep Boys. It's about 1x/8" in diameter, very dark gray in color, takes a semi-permanent bend, and slips on the outside of the output vents and inside the outlet vents on the dash. The material is corrugated and seems to have some metallic content together with some other high temperature organic. You can probably find it at any general-purpose autoparts store.


At 07:37 PM 8/11/99 -0400, Stu Brennan wrote:
>Here's a thought for replacing the tubes. Instead of using the paper
>ones like original, I used a couple of those aluminum flex tubes meant
>for use under the hood as hot air ducts, etc. Most auto parts stores
>have a wide selection. I found some that were just the right diameter,
>and joined them to the heater box and the diffusers with smaller
>internal tubes made from paper towel center tubes. Just glue them in,
>nothing shows, and there are no ugly clamps. After I got them bent to
>shape, I painted mine flat black, and they look just like original.
>Clean them well, as mine felt a bit oily.

Robert L. Palmer

Subject: Leather care
Date: Thurs., 12 Aug 1999 09:29:35 PDT
From: "Bob Douglas"-
To FritzWich If your leather is pristine, but dry, do not use just a cleaner/ conditioner; go with a leather restoration product first. I learned this once the hard way.
See This site for descriptions of one popular brand of leather restoration products. Same or similar are also carried by Bill Hirsch, etc...
See This site for a 3rd party assessment of these newer options versus the old standby Connolly Hide Food.

The "wax buildup" described in the Ferrari FAQ that occurs with some conditioners has another downside in that it will create a film on the windows during very hot weather. I found the more I cared for my seats during the hot Texas summers, the more I had to wash the insides of my car windows.

Bob Douglas

Subject: Fender Roller
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 07:47:52 -0700
From: "Gegg, Bill"-
Belonging to a BMW CS Coupe list does have some benefits. For those of you who need that extra fender width.
for a view see here!

Subject: balance tube hose measurements
Date: Thurs., 9 Sep 1999 17:43:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: wwwdg@webtv.net (David & Gary Franchi)
To: Ray Kreese

The are :1 11/16" ID by 2 1/2 " long. David F.

Subject: Door Panels
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:28:04 -0400
From: James Barrett-
To: RayKReese@aol.com
At 01:23 PM 9/13/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Listers: I ordered some door panel blanks from SS awhile back and am just now
>getting around to installing them, but when test fitting the blank to the
>door the holes don't seem to align. Am I looking at this thing wrong??? I
>have GT doors and the blanks are supposed to be for GT doors. My original
>door panels are in such a deteriorated condition that they are of little help.
>Ray B9473174


On my Tiger II that has the "GT" doors there are metal strips riveted around most of the fiberboard panel. There were two different locations for the window winder. The early doors had it too close to the knee and they were moved forward. The mechanical parts inside the door are also different for the two winder positions. The fastener holes are off set to allow the offset fasteners to line up with the door holes. If the old panels are simply badly warped, then try ironing then with a wet towel covering the cardboard. Use a hot steam iron. You may be able to get them flat enough to compare with what you bought.

James Barrett
Tiger II 351C and others

Subject: Cover
Date: Thurs., 23 Sep 1999 07:36:43 -0700
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: Dennis R Clark-,

Sorry for a possible repeat, but my own copy came back with 1 word on it {9-<

Steve Laifman - B9472289 wrote:
> Dennis R Clark wrote:
> Listers,
> I'm looking for a totally water proof car cover. The Tiger is getting
> kicked out of the garage it is in. I don't have a hard/soft top yet so I was
> hoping a water proof cover would work. I know they are out there I have
> one for my motorcycle. Please email me if you know where I can get my
> hands on one.
> Dennis Clark/Doug Clark
> Dennis,
> There are "drive-in" bags that can be zipped up to completely mothball your car.
> This way, not even the wet street will get to the underside.
> There are car covers that are water resistant, but most avoid these. The reason
> being that moisture can get in, and stay in, with humid air. None, to my
> knowledge, are hermetically sealed. (You might try a huge polyethylene sheet and
> heat-seal it up.)
> The problem is, that when the temperature drops, the moisture content of the air
> reaches the dew point and condenses out. Because the cover is water-proof, it
> hangs around and rots, or rusts all the surfaces it so easily covers. This happens
> in repeated cycles of humidity, rain, and a warming up of the weather. Something
> that always happens.
> Most go for the "let it get wet, let it dry out, and keep the sun away", because
> that's what damages the paint.
> Think about it.
> Steve Laifman - B9472289

Subject: Model Car (Tiger Mk 1a)Source Needed
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 20:02:24 EDT
From: Curt Meinel

Why bid when you can buy. We stock the Tiger AMT Blueprinter kit. Our part number AC122 at $18.95 plus shipping. Check under accessories at the web site at Classic Sunbeam
Best regards,
Classic Sunbeam

Subject: Sun Visors
Date: Thurs., 18 Nov 1999 15:28:32 -0800
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: laceyf@crosslink.net


I don't think there ever was any other color than the light white-like original color, regardless of the car or the interior colors. There are three brackets with the bracket kit. The two outside brackets, and a center bracket that spans both sides of the mirror. You remove the stock mirror screws, place the center portion in the center, and replace the mirror, using the longer screws provided. The mirror screws hold down the 'sandwich', just like the original.

Steve Laifman - B9472289

Subject: Wiper Motor
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:04:51 EST
From: Carmods@aol.com
To: RayKReese@aol.com
<< Listers: My wiper motor has stopped wiping. Anyone repaired one of these lately? >>
Hi Ray,
I recently repaired a wiper motor that didn't work and here is what I found. The main problem was that the grease in the gear box and in the flexible shaft housings had hardened to a point the motor couldn't turn. With the unit removed from the car, it was just a job of pulling the flexible drive cables and disassembling the gearbox so they could be cleaned and greased. Disassemble the motor and clean the brushes and armature and oil the bearings. If the brushes are worn they must be replaced. At this point you can check the armature and field coils for continuity. I believe this motor has holes in the brush holders where you can put wires to hold the brushes while you are assembling the motor. Don't forget to pull them out when you are done. It is important to mark the cover that holds the ground points before you take it off so that you get it back together right. That cover should be set for maximum travel.

John Logan

Subject: Need one of those frames
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:20:25 +0000
From: Steve Laifman
To:dcstory@aol.com<>DCStory@aol.com wrote:
> My wife bought me a box of rubbers
> for Christmas, the Sunbeam kind to replace my aging cracked rubber pieces. I
> was going to start with the trunk. It looks too easy ... it appears to just
> press on. Is it really that simple? Or is there something special that I
> need to do or a special technique I need to apply for it to have the correct fit.
> Don in San Dimas


Piece of pie. Simple as cake.

Unless the PO was in love with trim cement. Not much used on a Tiger. As long as you bought the good rubber from our reliable sources, you should have no special problems, but there ARE a few tricks.

If your trunk lip rubber does not have a steel core, throw it away and get the one that does.

If your headlight housing rubber does not have the screw tubes, and is just flat, throw it away and get the one that does.

These signs indicate you did not get the right source, and you will have nothing but trouble with the rest of the rubber, as well. If all is as described, not too bad a trip ahead.

Sunbeam does not use trim cement for the rubber draft seals. They generally snap over a lip, and are held on by the inner steel spring material, with a few pop rivets in strategic locations. Didn't even have to use the one the factory did on the windshield/door seal that has a severe bend.

The other kind of fastening is putting a dual lipped bottom section into a pop riveted steel channel about 3/4 inch wide. This would be around the doors, on the underside of the later design hard top, on the front hard top (maybe soft top) windshield seal. Most can be put in with a plastic 1 1/2-inch putty knife.

Starting at one end, put one 'lip' under the curved steel section. Use the putty knife and finger pressure to compress/deform the bottom rubber lip to slip over the steel edge, and then snap in. Work your way all the way around until you're at the other end. Try not stretching the rubber. I should really be able to slide a little in the channel. If you end up with an extra foot of rubber at the other end, it's probably stretched, and you need to use your fingers to work it into an un-stretched condition.

The end of either section may have been peened in to hold the rubber end. Opening this up with a flat bladed screwdriver will make insertion possible, and re-bending after relieving stretch finishes the job.

The front hard top seal is very thick, and not as easy to compress. May need two sets of hands, and two putty knives. Remember, on this piece (as well as other hardtop rubber) there are screws to deal with. One at each end of the front seal, an number under the windshield/window seal, and same with the top window seal on the hard top (may be the same on the convertible top, but I've never replaced mine, so don't know).

The back hardtop side window seal is tricky, as it is held in by an aluminum strip screwed to the vertical post. There is a left and a right, so don't lose track, or none will fit. The side window rubber is very complex shape and I worked my *ss off trying to get it to fit. After giving up and going to an upholstery shop for help, I finally got it in. Seemed like more rubber than opening. A little embarrassed when Rick (of Sunbeam Specialties) pointed out I had them on the wrong side. With no labels, pictures, or directions, I wish you luck here.

Anyway, after all that work I left it as was and it seems OK. Wouldn't want to toggle seal those windows, anyway, as the Plexiglas side windows would be under a good deal of strain at the "button" and it could crack the plastic.

I extended the front window/door seal (furflex) below the stock location to try to seal off that area that daylight shows through with the stock length. A 'little' trim cement at the end may stop it form flopping, as the support ends higher up.

Good luck on the side window trim, windshield pop riveted seals and channels. This is too tricky for a 'quick' explanation, and there are 'tricks' for the window channels and the rain drip seals and spring clips, as well as the door/ inner trim plastic sheet replacement, and the hard top under headliner insulation replacement.

Last word of caution. The rear hard top rubber and trim is tricky, and few get it right. The front window glass rubber is a 'pro" job, and the window frame-body seal has two rubber tapered adjustment wedges that you better find, in amongst the old cement, as you will need them for the new installation. They are near the rear frame bolts.

Good luck, and wait for a warm day.

Steve Laifman

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