The comments contained herein are the sole opinions of the contributors, and should be used with appropriate consideration of possible errors of omission, commission, or lack of sufficient information.

Section Editor - Larry Paulick

Section O - Body
Page 2


Subject: Door locks
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:11:56 -0800
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: "James E. Pickard"- Jim,

WARNING: The following message is devoid of any humor, so delete here, or be disappointed with dry technical crap.

I took off my door handles and mechanism for painting, and put them back together again. They worked well both before and after, but I did learn something of their normal operation, and some of the strange things I needed to do to get it back correctly.

The direct answer to your question:" Can't get it to rotate to the left past vertical. Is this normal? ' is no, it has 3 positions. Forward (lock), center (withdraw key), back (unlock).

Trouble Shooting:

First, the locks. When the outside handle is off the car, can you turn the cylinder in both directions (three positions) with the key, and withdraw the key in the vertical position? This test can be done with the handle installed, and the linkage disconnected, to avoid binding by other parts of the mechanism. There should be a small flat triangular wedge-shaped piece that rotates with the key attached to the lock cylinder on the inside of the handle for connection with the bent actuating rod . If this doesn't work, start here.

With the unit locked, the door button does not operate the rotating wedge. Unlocked, the linkage rotates, if the button is pushed. This will moves the bent linkage between the door lock and the wedge ramp on the back face of the door. This ramp is spring loaded against a jamb wedge, and actually performs the locking.

Second, the front inside handle mechanism. There is a bent flat strap between the inside door mechanism and the front inside door handle. This strap is backed by burlap cemented to the door and the inner door panel to hold it in place. If these are not in place, the flat strap can bow, decreasing its ability to operate correctly. That strap should move back and forth easily, but not far, with the door inside handle. It connects to the actuating rod through a toggle, and performs the same function as the outside handle linkage. If not, look there.

The real locking of the door is accomplished in two manners. They key allows/prevents the button from activating the linkage to the door wedge lock,, as well as doing the same thing with the inside handle to the lock position.

This is a 'Mickey Mouse' design, but common. The use of glued burlap and door panels may be common, but certainly not elegant. Hope this helps, more than it confuses. It's hard to describe this complicated linkage without having the stuff in front of you, so excuse the excess words.

-- Steve Laifman - B9472289

Subject: keys
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:21:08 -0800
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: "James E. Pickard"-

I'll give you the best information I have, meaning the only information I have. My ignition key is "triangular" in shape, and works the ignition AND the doors. It says "Rootes" and a serial number on one side, and "Made in England" and "L & F" on the other.

The trunk key, on the other hand, says "MADE IN ENGLAND" and "UNION" on one side, and on the other side "WILMOT" runs down one side, "BREEDEN" runs down the other, and a serial number is in a 'cartouche' below the hole.

Most of my previous English cars, which I owned new, had keys that said "UNION", and looked very much the same. Perhaps a source for MG, Jaguar, Healy, Triumph, etc. parts could have the same blanks.

The C.A.T. Shop Notes book, available to members, lists an American manufacturer named "Taylor", key blank R68W as a correct fit. If your key is REALLY worn, the locksmith better not use the 'tracer' method of making you a replacement, or he'll end up making you a brand new worn key. He needs the code number and the translation into the correct profile. At the very least, he should measure the wear on the lock pins, which may also be a problem. No notes in the TE/AE Tech Tip Manual on this subject.

Good luck,

Steve --

Steve Laifman - B9472289

Subject: keys revisited
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 07:27:17 -0600
From: "James E. Pickard"-

Thanks to the many that supplied info regarding locks. Anybody have an e-mail or phone number for Tiger Tom? BTW, I stumbled on a lock and key tech tip full of all kinds of useful information by Terry Edlund at:Tiger Tom

Jim Pickard B9473298

Subject: keys
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:09:32 EST
From: CoolVT@aol.com
To: geowiz@www.worldnet.att.net


The info I had received previously on key blanks is as follows:

Taylor #R68W
Taylor #X0199
Dominion (of Montrael) #HR62DG
Ilco #HR62DG
Older Jaguar, key blank
70's Volvo trunk key

Good luck,
Mark L.

Subject: Keys cut by number
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 22:53:11 -0500
From: Rande Bellman-Organization: The 122 Group

The following is a classified ad from the British Marque, a New England newspaper serving many British car clubs...

"Keys cut by code on ignition switch, FNR, FA, FP, FS; need numbers on switch, $6 each. Pete Groh, 9957 Fredrick Rd., Elliot City, MD 21042 (410)750-2352, S.A.S.E."

To that I would add that my Tiger 1A ignition key is an 'F& S' blank with Wilmot Breeden on one side and Union - Made in England on the other side.

My door key is a Dominion Lock Co. blank #HR62D6 or HR6296 (hard to read).


Subject: keys revisited
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 07:34:45 -0800
From: "Fraser, Ron"-
To: "'James E. Pickard'

Tiger Tom
Rd 2 Box 600
Black Bridge Rd
Annville Pa 17003
Ph #/ Fax 717-832-1116
E-mail Tigertoms@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
>From: James E. Pickard [mail
>To: geowiz@www.worldnet.att.net] Sent: Sunday, January 03, 1999 8:27 AM
>To: tigers@autox.team.net
>Subject: keys revisited

>Thanks to the many that supplied info regarding locks. Anybody have an e-mail or phone number for Tiger Tom?<p> BTW, I stumbled on a lock and key tech tip full of all kinds of useful information by Terry Edlund at:
Jim Pickard B9473298


Subject: Rust
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:43:09 -0500
From: Doug Mallory-
To: Armand & Lorie Ritchie-

I use Bill Hiersh miracle paint in black. Be for warned this will not come off! If you get it on ANYTHING it will be there. Fingers, floor, paint can lid etc. Follow the instructions and pour out what you need by poking a small hole in the top of the can and cover it with tape when done. He has a web page but I can't find it.

Doug Armand & Lorie Ritchie wrote:

> Hi all, I was looking in the trunk of the tiger last night just to check things out and because the side panels that cover the fuel tanks are off, I looked up under the rear fenders and noticed some surface rust right under the upper curve of the rear fenders. Now if I hadn't remove the side covers this never would have been noticed. I wanted to ask the list if anyone has used Eastwood's "heavy duty anti-rust". It sounds to be like "waxol" and I'm thinking it might be the ticket for these spots, and other places on the car like inside the doors etc. I have used Eastwood's "Corroless" and It's an excellent product but it has an awful smell and I don't want that inside the car, so I'm hoping someone can tell me about this other product.

> Regards
> Armand
> ritchie@mcn.org
> Armand & Lorie Ritchie Rgds., Doug

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