The comments contained herein are the sole opinions of the contributors, and should be used with appropriate consideration of possible errors of omission, commission, or lack of sufficient information.

Section Editor - Larry Paulick

Section O - Body
Page 4

Air Ducts

Subject: Fresh Air Duct removal
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 09:40:35 -0400
From: Chris.S.Mottram@ecc.com
To: FrizBMG@aol.com,
The fresh air grills are a friction fit via some little clips that will become very obvious when you gently pry the air grills out. I used a wooden shim. Go around the edges and lift a little at a time to avoid bending them. They are not extremely fragile but just be careful. They are metal.


> I am finally prepping the body for final painting. In the removal of the
>old paint, the stripper caused the paint to flake off in sheets. Some of
>these flakes fell into the fresh air intakes on the cowl. How do the
>(plastic?) air thingys come off? Do they pull off real forcefully or are
>there rivets or some other evil means of attachment?
>Thanks for the help

Subject: Fresh Air Grill Removal
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:01:03 -0400
From: STUART_BRENNAN@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com

I used a tool I made for my Jetta's air cleaner box. There was so much crap around the box that it was hard to get all the latches closed after a filter change.

Made from a coat hanger, it has a little hook on the end that would go in through the slots, and allow you to pull up on the grill from behind. Pull at the ends near the push in clips that hold them in place, not in the middle. This way there's no prying on your otherwise good surfaces. Remember to touch up the scratches on the back before you put them back in.


Subject: Fresh Air Duct removal
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 21:44:00 -0400
From: Paul Burr-
To: FrizBMG@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
> I would like to thank the list for all their fine answers over the past year
>or so I have been into the restoration of my Tiger. I am now at a point that I
>need input from the list again.
> I am finally prepping the body for final painting. In the removal of the old
>paint, the stripper caused the paint to flake off in sheets. Some of these
>flakes fell into the fresh air intakes on the cowl. How do the (plastic?) air
>thingys come off? Do they pull off real forcefully or are there rivets or some
>other evil means of attachment?
>Thanks for the help

Tony; If memory serves me, the plastic part of the vent is riveted to the car. Remove the metal grills and drill out the rivets. Or, just get a shop vac and clean it out.


Subject: Tonneau covers
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 11:21:41 -0400
From: Rande Bellman-Organization: The 122 Group
To: awtiger@ix.netcom.com

If you're installing you new tonneau cover on a Tiger 1A, some of the rear pins for male/female fasteners are already there because the vinyl top cover uses them, and the rear of the tonneau just snaps on top of the top over on a 1A. If this is the case, make sure the male part of the fasteners that are used for the top cover are longer, because they will have to accommodate the thickness of both the top cover and the tonneau.

If I went through all of this aforementioned stuff for naught because you have a Mark 1, you may have to lay the tonneau over the cockpit, and carefully mark a template. Because you want a relatively tight fit when its installed, you may want to get the assistance of your favorite helper to hold it on the car while you mark the locations for the male part of the snaps.

A couple more hints. If you're drilling holes in the body behind the top for the snaps, screw in the fastener by hand several times so that any paint chipping will have been completed by installation time. Then, get some touchup paint and touch up any bare metal showing around the holes.

As an added precaution, use a little rubber o-ring around the threads of the snap to keep moisture from forming a rust area.

As for the windshield area, use the center windshield stud as a centering location for the two forward middle snaps that affix to the padded dash. Mark and install the snaps for each door only after the rear and padded dash snaps are located.

Lastly, Robbins stuff is usually high quality and a great fit. I'm assuming that they use the Lift-the-Dot type of snaps, and not the snaps that more likely found on jackets.

Subject: Tonneau cover wisdom
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:21:16 -0700
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: Andy Walker-
Andy Walker wrote:
> "We at Robbins recommend
> you have any of our products installed by a qualified professional."
> Really, I don't think it will be that hard to do but I am in need of some
> advice. Is there a method by which these are installed? Do you install
> the dash attachments first or the rear ones? Or the sides? I really just
> need to know where to start and I think I can take it from there. Any
> advice and words of wisdom would be helpful. >
> Thanks,
> Andy Walker

Rande Bellman has some good advice. Here is my cut.

I installed one 2 years ago. The advice was actually pretty good, after I was finished. The one thing you'll find out is that those four prongs do not just "push through" the fabric. A special punch installers have, and is too expensive for a "one-shot" is used to make the center hole and the four tab holes. I did it with a cheap roto-tool punch for the center hole that I sharpened on a grinder first, and an Exacto knife for the tab slots, using the shell as a guide. Get plenty of Band-Aids. There is a strap in the middle that needs to be attached to your floor behind the glove box. This keeps the thing from flapping in the breeze with one side open. I used a non-included twist lock type fitting. This WAS installed at a top shop. I had learned my lesson by then.

I found that, for my MkI, there is NO excess material. The attach hardware actually has the lip edges underneath the edge seam so that it would reach from the rear snaps to the windshield snaps, and from the left front to the right front. The round snap needs special tools too, but these are available at your local sewing store. Or you can use a ball peen and a piece of rod, and be very careful.

I laid it out, first, with masking tape to get the general locations. After centering, and making sure each post location had enough room on the tonneau for the hardware (see above) I rubbed the surface with a piece of chalk to mark the hole location. Make sure it is taut, or it will never reach (unless Robbins is being more generous with their material)

Keep plenty of Band-Aids around, and a cloth to keep the blood off the paint and upholstery. Don't let it sit around, it will damage the paint. Clean it up and fix your finger after. The finger will heal, the paint wont. Good luck. My advice. Read the directions and follow them. Shop the installers. Ought to cost around $50. $100 and they are penalizing you for not buying it from them.

-- Steve Laifman - B9472289

Steering Wheel

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 21:15:43 EDT
From: BlueGolfer@aol.com
To: daniel@htg.net,

> Back to the steering wheel restoration. Does anyone actually recommend
>any restorers out there? Found some in Hemmings, but I don't know squat
>about any of them. Can someone give some feedback about any of the restorers
>in Hemmings?

Alright, I checked my log book.

Wx Motors, Broadway, Virginia. Did a good job on my steering wheel back including the center hub in 1990. Don't know if there are still in business. Can't find the phone number.
Rob Kempinski
Melbourne Fl

Subject: steering wheel restoration
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 1999 04:13:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: pamelam@connix.com

>Dan and Listers,
>I too am challenged with the shrunken steering wheel center hub. I am
>planning to use a product called Dura-Mix to fill the hub and then refinish
>it. If anyone has restored these wheels before with good success please fill
>us in on the appropriate products and techniques for both the wheel hub and
>the wood rim.

Dan, Tim, Listers:

I used the ribbon type epoxy putty to repair my steering wheel hub. It has held up for ten years.
The wood was a little more work. Mine was split across the front as well as radially. I used a razor knife and cut the wood open the rest of the way around the OD of the wheel. I was helped by the weakness of the original glue that held the two halves together. I cleaned up the wire and the inside of the wood cavity and then selected a long cure epoxy (4 hours) to give me working time plus minimal shrinkage.

I filled the cavity in one of the wood halves, and put all the pieces together (The front half came apart in two pieces from existing cracks) I then wound a heavy cotton string around the entire wheel, one coil next to the other-like whipping the end of a rope (or line for the sailors out there). This is where the working time came in handy. It was a major mess, but after the string was unwrapped and the excess epoxy was sanded off, it was very difficult to see any evidence of repair. A few coats of polyurethane, and again tens years of success.

Bob Melusky

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