The comments contained herein are the sole opinions of the contributors, and should be used with appropriate consideration of possible errors of omission, commission, or lack of sufficient information.
Section Editor - Larry Paulick
Section O - Body
Subject: Roll Bar and Questions
Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:59:02 -0600
From: Theo Smit-
To: "'Brad Joern'"
- I'll take a shot at defining some roll bar terminology. Generally on bolt-in installations, you are required to use 3/16" plates of 20 square inches or larger at each hoop or stay mounting point, on _both_ sides of the sheetmetal, i.e. you have to make backing plates for every mounting point, and you have to use at least three, 3/8", grade 8 or better, through bolts and nuts. On weld-in installations, you are required to use 0.100" plates of 20 square inches or more, and there is no requirement for backing plates, although it is recommended that the plates be welded across a body seam or onto some compound-shaped sheetmetal part to provide better rigidity and less possibility of punch-through in the event of stress on the roll bar. Requirements of your local sanctioning body may differ, but from a safety point of view, a roll bar that is fastened by two bolts on each point without any backup plates, might as well not be there. You'll just get hit by it when you crash.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Joern [SMTP:email@example.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 9:53 AM
> To: Theo Smit
> Subject: Roll Bar and Questions
> Hey All,
> I guess I'm generally a lurker here, but I have a roll bars on my car that
> seems pretty well designed. I am trying to take it out as I have a rusty
> Midwestern car in need of a total makeover. I am really ignorant about the
> terminology here, but I'll give it a shot. This bar is bolted through the top
> front of the "back seat" area on each side of the car. This is a one piece
> bent roll bar about 2"diameter. That would be the "main hoop"
> It is braced at the back of this "back seat" area on each side with another
> 2" diameter curved bar on each side. These are the "rear stays" and they
> really should be straight.
> The bracket is bolted through the side of the rear wheel well. On the large
> hoop in there is another straight 2" bar welded to the hoop from the low
> side passenger to the top side drivers side. The "diagonal". Most
> sanctioning bodies require one.
> There is another small curved bar going from the cross piece to left side
> of the main bar. This bar is intended to keep the seat from collapsing
> rearwards and provides a useful attachment point for shoulder
> The person who put it in enlarged the hole at the bottom of the "back seat
> area", under the car to access the mounting bolts. This worked fine for
> installation, but I will be grinding the bolt heads off to remove the rollbar.
> It might be less messy to centerpunch the top of the bolt head and drill
> them out (like you would do with a pop rivet). You won't get carbide
> chips embedded everywhere.
> This rollbar configuration allows the hard top to fit and as far as I know,
> the convertible top as well.
> I know the top goes over the roll bar no problem, but the previous owner
> mounted the front frame piece that mounts on the windshield on
> backwards. I have no idea if this configuration is novel or in adherence
> to any rules for racing, but it seems to work.
> My car is 1964, I think, and pretty darn rusty (everything below door level
> basically). If anyone has any resources to help me pull this thing apart, I
> am desperate. The car is complete down to the air cleaner, washer
> bottle, and radiator overflow, but no clock. It has a 4 barrel Holley,
> and I have the original 2bbl and manifold. The chrome valve cover serial
> number matches the engine code number. Its too embarrassing to
> drive and not likely safe, so I am in disassembly mode. I am
> videotaping the experience so I can eventually put things back together.
> Please help!!! .
> Brad C. Joern
One source for replacement parts that is near you is Rob Martel ([firstname.lastname@example.org]). He is located in Barrie, Ontario, and might also be able to give you pointers on where to cut and where not to.
Theo Smit email@example.com B382002705
Subject: Roll Bar
Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 15:44:06 -0700
From: Bob Palmer-
To: "Dr. T. Y. McDowell"-
Autopower, here in San Diego used to supply roll bars for Tigers. The vast majority of the ones you see here in S. Calif. were from this source. I used to have one too, but now I have a roll bar from Dale's Restorations. Dale added a forward bend in the major hoop just above where the brace bars are welded. This gives more clearance for the top (soft or hard) while providing more height over the head (where it counts). He has made some of them with a removable diagonal brace down to the passenger side of the tunnel. I don't know the current status of Dale or his business, but the roll bar used to be one of his standard items.
If you are interested, give his shop a call at 909-799-2099.
At 06:29 PM 5/22/99 -0500, Dr. T. Y. McDowell wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get a roll bar for my Mk1A?
> Thanks in advance.
> Tym McDowell
Robert L. Palmer
Dept. of AMES,
Univ. of Calif.,
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 1999 12:29:21 -0700
From: Mac & Kenda Sawhill-Organization: Spectrum Solid Surfacing
I know of one person who does dashes with or with out glove box doors for Tigers. I have seen his work and it is far superior to original. He also will do custom gauge configurations and any kind of wood you would like. The last address I had is. (also check in Hemmings)
140 N. Harrison Ave.
Campbell, CA 95008
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 21:42:26 -0500
From: "Andy Walker"-
Mac is right on this one. The dash in my car was all cracked up and the fellow I bought the car from had ordered a replacement dash from "Prestige Autowood." He ordered it with the glove box door.
When I bought the car, I considered changing it since it had the glove box door. However, even being the purist that I am, I could not bring myself to change it out. It is the most perfect dash I have ever seen! If you are in need of a replacement dash, I highly recommend "Prestige Autowood." And, as Mac stated in his post, you can find him in "Hemmings Motor News."
Have a good one,
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 03:35:21 -0400
Sunbeam Specialties & Tigers Tom's both carry the Prestige Autowood dashes. If either of these suppliers have what you want in stock, you can avoid a long wait by ordering direct from Prestige. You don't save anything by ordering direct either.
> I have seen this guys work and Mac is dead on. Simply the best dashes I
> have ever seen. I have a friend who is in the LBC restoration business. He
> will not use any one but Prestige. Frankly, after viewing the unfinished
> one I have yet to finish, I am sorry I did not spend the extra dinero to go
> with one of this fellow's dashes.......
> -----Original Message-----
> From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mail
> To: email@example.com] On Behalf Of Mac & Kenda Sawhill
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 1999 12:29 PM
> To: Tiger List
> Subject: Dashboards
> To fellow Listers,
> I know of one person who does dashes with or with out glove box
> doors for Tigers. I have seen his work and it is far superior to
> original. He also will do custom gauge configurations and any kind of
> wood you would like. The last address I had is. (also check in
> Prestige Autowood
> 140 N. Harrison Ave.
> Campbell, CA 95008
> Ph. 408-370-3705
> Fax. 408-370-3792
> Happy Tigering!!!
> Mac Sawhill
Subject: Wood dash lettering
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:58:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Mottram
To: Allan Connell
Alan et. al,
Thanks everyone for tips on dash lettering. I found some dry transfer letters that appear to match the size and font I found on page 72 of the Book of Norman. Here is the info:
Call first or check on the net.
Go to model Train store
Model Graphics by Woodland Scenics
Model Quality Dry Transfer Decals
I chose part # MG738 Condensed Gothic, R.R. White 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16
The sheet has enough letters to do all of the instruments. There was also another font called 45 degree Gothic that looked pretty close too.
They claim to be solvent resistant, so I am going to put down a sealer cost of polyurethane (Helmans Spar Urethane) , apply the letters, then put several more coats of polyurethane. I will post the results.
Subject: Coating the Walnut Dash
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:40:16 -0400
To: "Theodore V. Brown"-
You can easily coat the finished dash with a pour on plastic lacquer-like finish that will equal 50 coats of varnish. This is a method that Scott Woerth pioneered years ago.
It is durable, easily applied when you know how, and much more attractive than any other. A very deep & glossy finish. And your Formica will look precisely like wood.
We used to use a Wilson art burled wood countertop material that looked very much like the standard Tiger dash material, which I think is no longer produced, but this coating would cover wood also.
It's called Envirotex. It is a two part pour on plastic finish. It is a little tricky to apply. If you are interested, call me on the phone and I'll explain how to do it. I did three dashes with excellent results.
"Theodore V. Brown" wrote:
> Sometime ago, I was looking at laminate chips at a building supply store
> (not a whole lot of excitement in my life!) and noticed what I thought was
> a perfect match to the dash in my Tiger MkIA (B382002384). The chip is
> Formica brand #1136-90 and is identified as "Chestnut Burl". It was such a
> perfect match that I bought some and made myself a console to hold the
> radio, a couple of gauges and switches and installed it below the dash.
> It's a quick way to replace a dash without all the hassle of veneers and
> multiple coats of poly or whatever. If you use a good automotive polish,
> it should be pretty resistant to UV and it won't crack like the original.
> I don't know if the laminate is still available but I have a lot left over
> if anyone would like some.
> Tod Brown