The comments contained herein are the sole opinions of the contributors, and should be used with appropriate consideration of possible errors of omission, commission, or lack of sufficient information.
Section Editor - Larry Paulick
Section O - Body
Page 5
Sheet Metal
Subject: Anyone know how to contact Rob Martel ?
Date: Thurs., 03 Dec 1998 14:01:43 -0700
From: Ken Tisdale-Organization: Pulsecom
To: Cullen Bennett-
Try:
Rob Martel Enterprises Ltd.
Rob Martel Enterprises Ltd.
320 Yonge Street Box 173
Barrie, Ontario, Canada
L4N 4C8
Phone/Fax 1-705-435-0164
Cullen Bennett wrote:
> I am looking for a contact mechanism for Rob Martels, Please send info to
> p21988@email.mot.com or call 602-441-6601 daytime 602-730-6884 evenings.
> Thanks in advance,
> Cullen Bennett in Tempe AZ
Subject: Left Quarter
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 12:00:57 -0700
From: "herbeam"-
To: "Dr. T. Y. McDowell"-, "Tigers"-
Smitty's in San Diego has several complete left rear quarters for Rootes Sportscars ...call him for a quote and be sure to add shipping and waiting time.
(858) 233-7937
----- Original Message -----
> From: Dr. T. Y. McDowell-
> To: Tigers-Sent: Saturday, July 24, 1999 12:41 PM
> Subject: Left Quarter
>
> Make my day!! Yesterday, a young lady plowed into my '66Mk1A, which we
> just completed restoring.
> I need the entire left rear quarter. Her insurance is paying so $$ is
> not a concern. I want to have a price on the quarter prior to the
> insurance adjuster looking at my car the top of the week.
> Thanks in advance.
> Tym McDowell
Subject: Left Quarter
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 12:51:17 -0700
From: "Allan Connell"-
To: "herbeam"-, "Dr. T. Y. McDowell"-,
Bob,
I may be mistaken, but I think his area code is still (619), I think this new area code applies to y'all up North of Mira Mar Road and Del Mar-tians! :)
Allan
Subject: Left Quarter
Smitty's in San Diego has several complete left rear quarters for Rootes Sportscars ...call him for a quote and be sure to add shipping and waiting time.
(858) 233-7937
----- Original Message -----
>From: Dr. T. Y. McDowell-
>To: Tigers-Sent: Saturday, July 24, 1999 12:41 PM
>Subject: Left Quarter
> Make my day!! Yesterday, a young lady plowed into my '66Mk1A, which we
> just completed restoring.
> I need the entire left rear quarter. Her insurance is paying so $$ is
> not a concern. I want to have a price on the quarter prior to the
> insurance adjuster looking at my car the top of the week.
> Thanks in advance.
> Tym McDowell
Subject: Left Quarter
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1999 21:13:14 EDT
From: RayKReese@aol.com
Tym: Since money is not an object, and you certainly want one that is non-rusted and fits correctly, then maybe you should contact Rob Martel. If his address hasn't changed, it's 320 Yonge Street, Box 173, Barrie, Ontario, Canada, L4N 4C8.
Also try him at (705)435-0164 or Rob Martel E-Mail
Good luck!
Ray - B9473174
Subject: Front valence fixation
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 17:52:31 -0500
From: "Mark Meswarb"-
Chris,
The metal strip attachment was used when the cars got oil coolers. Later Tigers and Series V Alpines got them. I think the Tiger had two rows of cooling coils and the Alpine only had one. So, if your car has an oil cooler or you plan to add one, I think you would want to use this type attachment.
Good Luck,
Mark
Mark Meswarb's page
>From: Chris Mottram->
>To: tigers@autox.team.net, alpines@autox.team.net >
>Subject: Front valence fixation >
Date: Mon, Sep 20, 1999, 2:33 PM
>I have to put on a new valence from Tiger Tom's. Several DPO's ago
>someone cut out the "bulkhead" that goes in front of the lower radiator
>and allows (on my car) a horizontal square tube of sheet metal to be
>welded to the backside center of the front valence (behind the circle
>hole). This is to stabilize the valence I presume. (I still have the
>removed piece) At the SOS I checked every car there to see how they
>handled the attachment of the front valence. Much to my surprise there
>was another way the valence attached. On some cars, a flat metal bar
>connected the bottom of the valence to the top by the center badge
>assembly mounting. What's the deal with this? I saw Alpines and
>Tigers done with both methods. Is it an Alpine vs. Tiger thing or an
>change order in mid production? Which is appropriate for a Mk1a Tiger?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chris
Subject: Boot Floor Removal tool
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 13:35:41 -0700
From: Theo Smit
To: Chris Mottram
Chris:
The cleanest way to do it is to find all the spot welds for the floor panel and then use a spot weld cutter in your hand drill to pop all the spot welds. A spot weld cutter looks like a miniature hole saw (about 5/16" diameter) with a sprung center pin. The idea is that you cut through the top layer only, and that leaves the material underneath with a little wart on it that you have to grind off.
Method #2 is to get a three-fingered seam cutter (for an air hammer) that cuts a 1/8" to 3/16" strip out of the panel, and then you go around the part you want. Not as nice, because you have to clean up the edge afterwards, and the cheaper varieties of chisel tend to lose the middle finger if you walk it over a doubled piece of sheet metal.
After that things get messy. Probably a Sawzall is your best bet. Minimal material lost, and minimal dressing required afterward. An angle grinder loads the edge and other parts with carbide chips, while doing a clean cut on used metal with oxyacetylene is hard.
What does Rob Martel charge for a boot floor? Considering the amount of time required to remove and clean up the old floor you may be better off starting with a new piece of metal.
v Good Luck
Theo Smit
B382002705
> From: Chris Mottram
> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 1:11 PM
> To: Tigers@autox.team.net; alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: Boot Floor Removal tool
>
> Sorry if this is a duplicate. I sent it previously
> from my other address which should be refused by the
> "majordomo"
>
> I want to cut the boot floor out of one Sunbeam and
> put it in another. I don't have any tools that will {snip}
> If anyone has done this before and has any advice, I
> welcome it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
Subject: Floor removal
Date: Thurs., 2 Dec 1999 09:45:57 -0600
From: Tim Ronak
To: Chris Mottram
CC: "'Tiger News Group List'
Chris,
v That will teach me for not reading the list carefully sorry about that I thought you were cutting a hole for a shifter!
If you want to replace the floor Theo is right to use the spot weld cutter in the car to keep to preserve the attaching flange and use plain old drill bits in the car you are removing the floor from. After you drill out the welds you may need to use the flat blade on and air hammer to actually get the floor out but you do not want to deform the new floor or the old mounting flange in the car you are restoring. Be sure to MIG weld in the new floor as it is a structural member and brazing is unsafe, unsightly and illegal in Collision repair circles. To fit the new floor position it as well as you can and drill a series of 1/8" holes through both panels and then screw the floor together with #8 sheet metal screws as a test fit. Once confidant the fit is good start to weld the panel in and when secure remove the clamping screws and weld ALL of the holes up. Use a metal etching primer like Sikkens CR and then seal the seams inside and out with a brushable body seam sealer.
Best regards,
Tim Ronak
Subject: Exhaust
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 09:52:39 -0800
From: Tom Hall
To:Dr. T. Y. McDowel
At 09:11 AM 12/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
>When I was removing the old system, the anchors that are spot-welded to
>the floor broke off. Do I need new ones and where can I get them?
This failure of the support brackets is very common. You will need to reuse your broken parts or fabricate similar replacements. I would suggest that you examine the broken areas thoroughly as the typical failure involves failure of the floor pan that the angle is spot welded to rather than failures of the spot welds themselves. If you find that the floor areas are cracking, you need to not only re-attach the brackets, but add some additional metal that will spread the load that the bracket carries farther away from the original attachment area. If you don't go this extra step, the newly attached brackets will fail again right next to your welds in a short amount of time. I recommend that you inspect all four mount areas, top and bottom, as this is rarely a singular failure. Be sure to do a through job of cleaning down to base metal before attempting to re-attach the brackets. Also make SURE that you have removed all flammable upholstery materials from the weld areas or otherwise protected it from welding sparks, and maintain a continuos fire watch. No one wants a toasted Tiger.
>Also, while my exhaust system came with a package of nuts, bolts,
>washers, etc., it didn't come with any directions. Are there directions
>or should this be self-explanatory?
If this kit is not self-explanatory, I suggest you find a local muffler shop to assist you with the installation. Be forewarned, muffler guys MIG weld everything together, so if you want to be able to disassemble your system in your driveway, you'll have to watch them like a hawk or be prepared to have to grind the welds off or cut the system apart.
Tom
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